|Letter from the Editor
Welcome to the very first (and probably last)
edition of Mediaeval ROGUE Internet Magazine, The Company Of St
Sebastian's occasional publication. Fashions may come and fashions
may go but in the world of the fifteenth century we know exactly where
it's at and where it's staying.
In this edition check out our
autumn fashion shoot, bringing you the latest styles from
the castle ramparts. Tailored hose and tapered waistlines are
definitely the hot look this century.
We have yet another exclusive with a
behind the scenes interview with l'enfant perdu of the fashion
legendary French designer 'N', talking about his
forthcoming Spring Couture Collection and his new prêt-à-porter
garment ranges ('Lancastria' and 'Yorkismo') set to elevate even the lowliest of commoners.
Is madder the new black? He sets us straight on the colours to be seen
in and those to avoid -
or should we say whose to avoid...
Has single hose had its day? At
ROGUE we don't think so.
Check out our article on alternative
Charity begins in your own castle
grounds and this year we are campaigning for the
fight against breast
cancer - and by that we mean breast plates. Nothing says
uncared for than that huge patch of rust. Our quartermaster will teach
you all you need to know about maintaining your armour in top
condition - you never know, it might be your life it saves.
This century it's all about linen
and our style gurus will be briefing you (pun intended!) on
sexy new breeches from the
Boudica's Boudoir and Calvinist Klein.
Do you really want to end up like a
Tudor? Definitely NOT! Fitness editor Steve Churchill gives you tips
on keeping that belly under control and helps you build up your
stamina and shoulder for
Thank you for your indulgence,
Wilson Forsythe, Editor
Editor in Chief
WE CAN BEAT IT
let it ruin your plate
Looking at the bill-men mustering on the
field in their bright colours, it's often hard to imagine the shame
and hidden suffering that many of them are enduring. Something is
eating away at their lives and it could have been so easily prevented.
Every year hundreds of us succumb, in some
degree or form, to cancer of the breastplate, or as laymen call it:
'rust'. Embarrassed, sufferers often try to conceal their plight
under their livery coats - (or worse, 'hammerite'), little realising
the danger they have put themselves in by not taking preventative
steps and urgent remedial action. Over time, cancerous free-radicals
attack and corrode the breast plate, oxidising it and breaking down
its defences; leaving the wearer un-protected and vulnerable.
Left untreated, Fast Acting Breastplate
Cancer (or, as officially abbreviated, 'FAB-C') can quickly
spread to other equipment rendering everything from glaives to swords
a dangerous source of tetanus. (It is particularly dangerous if left
unchecked in the armoury or stores). Prolonged exposure to FAB-C
can affect the mental faculties of the sufferer and may lead to
'rust blindness' - the inability to spot rust on their metal
equipment - and a 'couldn't care less' attitude. In the advanced
stages, the FAB-C sufferer is easy to spot on the field. Off
the field it's not so easy (though the FAB-C positive do tend
to be politically active, forming support groups under the banner of
'mercenaries' in order to fight for their cause and run recruitment
Fortunately, there are practical steps that
can be taken in the war on FAB-C. You should look for the early
warning signs and take prompt action.
for any unusual lumps, bumps or dents that seem out of place
the ages of 16 and 60 should have a bi-annual screening at their
local Commission of Array
After use, dry
the breastplate and then gently apply natural oil to help heal any
cases we recommend the use of a lightly abrasive cloth or brush
(to remove any obvious signs of corrosion) and polish. For non
'white' armour -if necessary - have your breastplate re-blackened
at your local forge.
oil and store your your breastplate in a dry place away from damp
when not in use. (Gently wipe off the oil with a soft cloth prior
to use if your breast plate is needed).
Never loan your
breastplate to anyone you suspect of being FAB-C positive
- (the rest of their kit should be an obvious giveaway)
Remember, in most cases FAB-C is preventable
and curable (with prevention always the breast cure in this
Enigma that is 'N'
Meeting with legendary French fashion designer ‘N’ is nigh
on impossible at the best of times. Renowned for having a gruelling
schedule that sees him up at the crack of dawn and working right the way
through to late evening - when he finally has the opportunity to kick back
with a few ales or possibly some mead in the small hours - ‘N’ is nothing
if not busy. I am therefore privileged that he has found some time
to meet-up for this *EXCLUSIVE* interview.
I break the ice –
it’s a chilly autumn morning – and ask him to run me though an average
day. “I get up with the sunlight and launch straight into my sewing.”, he
muses, “At this time of year, with the end of the season approaching, you
may think you’re on top of everything, but there’s always those unexpected
‘rush’ jobs that seem to spring up with frightening regularity.” he
giggles, “Having acres of fabric to work with is a real boon – with out
them I don’t know what I’d do. Even then I still have to cram in a light
feast at lunchtime and then take time out and make sure I spend at least
four hours of the afternoon keeping an eye on the latest street fashions
and the progress of my lordship’s cosmetics ranges – but enough of that –
I just don’t like talking about it. Anyway, I’m busy, you’re busy, we’re
all busy and you’re here to preview my new season’s Spring Couture
He may speak in
paragraphs but he knows exactly how to get to the point.
The steam rises up
into the cold autumn atmosphere from his mulled milk beverage – the first
of many he will consume this morning – but the charge in the air is
positively palpable. He’s obviously excited and eager to gauge my reaction
to his latest collection of hot couture. My expectations are high, after
all this is THE 'enfant perdu' of the world fashion scene. Words
like ‘shocking’, ‘daring’, ‘genius’ and ‘dangerously avant garde’
are frequently banded about him. His name, ‘N’, revered and reviled
in equal terms; shouted from the battlements to scare off the enemy, or
spoken in hushed whispers for fear of charges of heresy.
He draws back the
I feel my breath as it
bursts gaspingly from my lungs. I have to take a moment to steady myself.
‘Outrageous!’ is the only description I can think of as I gaze in
admiration at fine garments that blatantly rail with such violence against
the stuffiness of our modern sumptuary laws. This is not just excess, it’s
excess at it’s best!
Inspired by a design
he had originally created for his close friend and influential client,
Kurt de Cobain (who so tragically lost his mind in bizarre circumstances
with a crossbow), the styling is visionary and detailing immaculate. Is
this the future? ‘N’ certainly thinks so.
“Thus far I’ve had a
lot of interest (when my initial sketches were accidentally leaked) from
the Swiss and the Germans. So I’ve decided to run with my theme ‘Cut and
Slash™’. They’re heralding it as the new New Look. I just think it
might be a little plus trop for the English who are just – let’s
face it – so 1463 when it comes to cutting edge fashion.”
And ‘cutting edge’
is the phrase! Slashes everywhere, complex patterns, sharp cuts
puffed out with excessive material – it’s all here! “I have the fabric and
know how to use it!” exclaims ‘N’ feverishly (but not bubonicly), “Slash
Hose? It’s Le Grunge!” he continues.
Blacks, Reds, Yellows,
Blues, Whites…brightly dyed linings that protrude in the most unexpected
of places. If he and his designs are allowed into the country London
Fashion Festival is in for a wake up call.
I just have time to
start scraping my jaw from the floor, whilst ‘N’ lovingly and carefully
whisks his designs back under the covers. He returns and steers me onwards
to view the next hot topic for discussion
“‘Lancastria’ and ‘Yorkismo’!”
he announces gleefully. The eagerly awaited prêt-à-porter ranges soon to
be launched at market outlets of leading stalls including LAST, British
Hose Stores and de Benham’s. The range provides a complete set of outer
garments, both formal and casual, including gowns, doublets, hose and
Lined with linen, the
doublet range comes in a variety of colours including madder, brown,
woodland green, blue and pale yellow - which can easily be mixed and
matched with hose available in the same colours. All come with standard
gauge linen points (silk optional).
Gowns are close
fitting with the thinnest of fur trims.
‘N’ explains, “By mass
producing clothing with the ‘tailored look’, I can creatively and
economically use wools and linens to make garments that are affordable and
legal for everyone.”
The informal selection
is great for day-wear and around the home, whilst the formal attire will
enable you to blend in at your household’s seasonal feast or cut a pious
dash at Sunday Mass.
“I make the wool go
further,” quips ‘N’, “and nothing is wasted. ‘Scraps to hats!’ – that’s my
new motto – because ‘from small scraps great ‘acorns’ shall grow”
Livery coats are
available in ‘N’s’ signature Murray/Azur and Green/White. “Which will
prove more popular?” I ask. ‘N’ is uncharacteristically tight-lipped on
this subject. I push him further and finally, in hushed tones, he quietly
concedes that he thinks Green/White may be the new Black but, with a
twinkle in his eye, adds that he leaves you to draw your own conclusions.
This season, single legged hose
continues to dominate the 'alternative' field fashions market (see autumn fashion feature). Light weight, easy to put on, and giving a degree of
flexibility unsurpassed in any other leg-wear format known to man, the Split is the
ideal choice for all eXtremeField enthusiasts.
Split provides all-round movement without the
discomfort of those fiddly, cramped up codpieces, and can be worn on
one leg or both with mix-and-match options for party-goers. Add to
that the convenience of prompt access when at the... erm... convenience,
the only draw back is the risk of icy draughts and potential for haemorrhoids.
Use them to show off your equipment and your
latest purchases from the 'Boudica's Boudoir for Men' or 'Calvinist
Klein' designer breeches collections.
Breeching the Peace
white linen..." as the old madrigal goes, was the inspiration for
the eagerly awaited winter range from Boudica's Boudoir For Men. The
simplicity of the 'Heretic' design centres around the classic lines of
a single tube and belies the comfort, practicality and unsurpassed
mystery of these undergarments. Using the finest soft linen hand
washed in his Holiness's Holy Water, 'Heretic' is as comfortable on
the field as it is off behind bedchamber doors. Accessorised
with silk drawstrings in a choice of exciting colours
Coinciding with the Heretic launch are the new
designs from Calvinist Klein. Also adopting the tubular design, Klein
has geared his to the younger market, coming as they do in an
attractive choice of White, Off-White, Fawn, Beige and Grey.
Controversially these designs were recently seen on the Paris catwalk
being modeled by cross-dressing super-star Joan D'Arc
Both ranges will launch exclusively at de Benham's
stalls in September.
FASHION FOR THE ASPIRING ARCHER
HEALTH & EXERCISE
SUNDAY WORKOUT with
Do you worry
that you might be developing a waist-line that more suits Tudor
stylings? Having trouble squeezing into that breast-plate or
brigandine? Then why not do some light Sunday exercise. With Steve
Churchill's programme for ultimate fitness you can regain your shape
by working out only one day a week!
begin: Make sure you have completed a warm up and are loosened up
thoroughly. For these exercises you will need a bow (draw weight
dependent on upper body strength), sheaf of arrows and a brigandine.
the bow' - Place the lower point of the bow onto the ground. Stand
with feet either side of the bow. Grip the top and, pushing down, move
your left foot forward and lunge - gently easing the string to the top
of the bow. Repeat this exercise for 10 reps gradually increasing the
tension on the string until it's attached.
little by taking ten deep breaths whilst the blood cools from your
the Bow' - With arrow knocked gently raise the bow (keeping back
straightened and knees slightly bent) and draw across your body hands
at shoulder height. Then 'loose!'. You should aim to build in groups
of twenty reps a minute.
by taking deep breaths and toweling the sweat from your brow.
Your Core' - The drawing motion twists your body, you should
counter this after every set of reps by twisting in the opposite
direction. Keep your shoulders loose and mobile - practice putting on
and taking off your brigandine (10 reps) - remembering to keep your
back straight and lift with the knees, sucking in that stomach
at all times.
'Unstringing the Bow' - As before place the lower point of the bow
on the ground and straddle between your legs. Again applying pressure
to the top, this time try lunging with your right foot forward for ten
reps - gradually loosening the string until it detaches.
Wind down and
relax with deep breathing exercises and a slightly chilled soft drink
- and that's all until next Sunday.
IN THEATRES NATIONWIDE: