PUBLISHED OCCASIONALLY BY THE COMPANY OF SAINT SEBASTIAN   

Issue #1   

Letter from the Editor

Welcome to the very first (and probably last) edition of Mediaeval ROGUE Internet Magazine, The Company Of St Sebastian's occasional publication. Fashions may come and fashions may go but in the world of the fifteenth century we know exactly where it's at and where it's staying.

In this edition check out our exclusive autumn fashion shoot, bringing you the latest styles from the castle ramparts. Tailored hose and tapered waistlines are definitely the hot look this century.

We have yet another exclusive with a behind the scenes interview with l'enfant perdu of the fashion world, legendary French designer 'N', talking about his forthcoming Spring Couture Collection and his new prêt-à-porter garment ranges ('Lancastria' and 'Yorkismo') set to elevate even the lowliest of commoners. Is madder the new black? He sets us straight on the colours to be seen in and those to avoid  - or should we say whose to avoid...

Has single hose had its day? At ROGUE we don't think so. Check out our article on  alternative field kit.

Charity begins in your own castle grounds and this year we are campaigning for the fight against breast cancer - and by that we mean breast plates. Nothing says uncared for than that huge patch of rust. Our quartermaster will teach you all you need to know about maintaining your armour in top condition - you never know, it might be your life it saves.

This century it's all about linen and our style gurus will be briefing you (pun intended!) on  sexy new breeches from the Boudica's Boudoir and Calvinist Klein.

Do you really want to end up like a Tudor? Definitely NOT! Fitness editor Steve Churchill gives you tips on keeping that belly under control and helps you build up your stamina and shoulder for longbow excellence.

Thank you for your indulgence,

 

Wilson Forsythe, Editor


Group Chairman

Editor in Chief

Fashion & Features Editor

Archery & Fitness Editor

Alternative Stylings Editor

Advertising & Marketing

 

Steve Churchill

Wilson Forsythe

Vincent Aine

Steve Churchill

Ian Churchill

Wilson Forsythe

 


BREAST CANCER: WE CAN BEAT IT

 Don't let it ruin your plate


Looking at the bill-men mustering on the field in their bright colours, it's often hard to imagine the shame and hidden suffering that many of them are enduring. Something is eating away at their lives and it could have been so easily prevented.

Every year hundreds of us succumb, in some degree or form, to cancer of the breastplate, or as laymen call it: 'rust'. Embarrassed, sufferers often try to conceal their plight under their livery coats - (or worse, 'hammerite'), little realising the danger they have put themselves in by not taking preventative steps and urgent remedial action. Over time, cancerous free-radicals attack and corrode the breast plate, oxidising it and breaking down its defences; leaving the wearer un-protected and vulnerable.

Left untreated, Fast Acting Breastplate Cancer (or, as officially abbreviated, 'FAB-C') can quickly spread to other equipment rendering everything from glaives to swords a dangerous source of tetanus. (It is particularly dangerous if left unchecked in the armoury or stores). Prolonged exposure to FAB-C can affect the mental faculties of the sufferer and may lead to 'rust blindness' - the inability to spot rust on their metal equipment - and a 'couldn't care less' attitude. In the advanced stages, the FAB-C sufferer is easy to spot on the field. Off the field it's not so easy (though the FAB-C positive do tend to be politically active, forming support groups under the banner of 'mercenaries' in order to fight for their cause and run recruitment drives).

Fortunately, there are practical steps that can be taken in the war on FAB-C. You should look for the early warning signs and take prompt action.

Regularly check for any unusual lumps, bumps or dents that seem out of place

Anyone between the ages of 16 and 60 should have a bi-annual screening at their local Commission of Array

After use, dry the breastplate and then gently apply natural oil to help heal any scratches

In advanced cases we recommend the use of a lightly abrasive cloth or brush (to remove any obvious signs of corrosion) and polish. For non 'white' armour -if necessary - have your breastplate re-blackened at your local forge.

Always lightly oil and store your your breastplate in a dry place away from damp when not in use. (Gently wipe off the oil with a soft cloth prior to use if your breast plate is needed).

Never loan your breastplate to anyone you suspect of being  FAB-C positive - (the rest of their kit should be an obvious giveaway)

Remember, in most cases FAB-C is preventable and curable (with prevention always the breast cure in this on-going campaign).



The Enigma that is 'N'

Meeting with legendary French fashion designer ‘N’ is nigh on impossible at the best of times. Renowned for having a gruelling schedule that sees him up at the crack of dawn and working right the way through to late evening - when he finally has the opportunity to kick back with a few ales or possibly some mead in the small hours - ‘N’ is nothing if not busy.  I am therefore privileged that he has found some time to meet-up for this *EXCLUSIVE* interview.

 I break the ice – it’s a chilly autumn morning – and ask him to run me though an average day. “I get up with the sunlight and launch straight into my sewing.”, he muses, “At this time of year, with the end of the season approaching, you may think you’re on top of everything, but there’s always those unexpected ‘rush’ jobs that seem to spring up with frightening regularity.” he giggles, “Having acres of fabric to work with is a real boon – with out them I don’t know what I’d do. Even then I still have to cram in a light feast at lunchtime and then take time out and make sure I spend at least four hours of the afternoon keeping an eye on the latest street fashions and the progress of my lordship’s cosmetics ranges – but enough of that – I just don’t like talking about it. Anyway, I’m busy, you’re busy, we’re all busy and you’re here to preview my new season’s Spring Couture Collection.” 

He may speak in paragraphs but he knows exactly how to get to the point.

The steam rises up into the cold autumn atmosphere from his mulled milk beverage – the first of many he will consume this morning – but the charge in the air is positively palpable. He’s obviously excited and eager to gauge my reaction to his latest collection of hot couture. My expectations are high, after all this is THE 'enfant perdu' of the world fashion scene. Words like ‘shocking’, ‘daring’, ‘genius’ and ‘dangerously avant garde’ are frequently banded about him. His name, ‘N’, revered and reviled in equal terms; shouted from the battlements to scare off the enemy, or spoken in hushed whispers for fear of charges of heresy.

He draws back the curtain. ‘Voila!’

I feel my breath as it bursts gaspingly from my lungs. I have to take a moment to steady myself. ‘Outrageous!’ is the only description I can think of as I gaze in admiration at fine garments that blatantly rail with such violence against the stuffiness of our modern sumptuary laws. This is not just excess, it’s excess at it’s best!

Inspired by a design he had originally created for his close friend and influential client, Kurt de Cobain (who so tragically lost his mind in bizarre circumstances with a crossbow), the styling is visionary and detailing immaculate. Is this the future? ‘N’ certainly thinks so.

“Thus far I’ve had a lot of interest (when my initial sketches were accidentally leaked) from the Swiss and the Germans. So I’ve decided to run with my theme ‘Cut and Slash™’. They’re heralding it as the new New Look. I just think it might be a little plus trop for the English who are just – let’s face it – so 1463 when it comes to cutting edge fashion.”

And ‘cutting edge’ is the phrase! Slashes everywhere, complex patterns, sharp cuts puffed out with excessive material – it’s all here! “I have the fabric and know how to use it!” exclaims ‘N’ feverishly (but not bubonicly), “Slash Hose? It’s Le Grunge!” he continues.

Blacks, Reds, Yellows, Blues, Whites…brightly dyed linings that protrude in the most unexpected of places. If he and his designs are allowed into the country London Fashion Festival is in for a wake up call.

I just have time to start scraping my jaw from the floor, whilst ‘N’ lovingly and carefully whisks his designs back under the covers. He returns and steers me onwards to view the next hot topic for discussion

“‘Lancastria’ and ‘Yorkismo’!” he announces gleefully. The eagerly awaited prêt-à-porter ranges soon to be launched at market outlets of leading stalls including LAST, British Hose Stores and de Benham’s. The range provides a complete set of outer garments, both formal and casual, including gowns, doublets, hose and liveries.

Lined with linen, the doublet range comes in a variety of colours including madder, brown, woodland green, blue and pale yellow - which can easily be mixed and matched with hose available in the same colours. All come with standard gauge linen points (silk optional).

Gowns are close fitting with the thinnest of fur trims.

‘N’ explains, “By mass producing clothing with the ‘tailored look’, I can creatively and economically use wools and linens to make garments that are affordable and legal for everyone.”

The informal selection is great for day-wear and around the home, whilst the formal attire will enable you to blend in at your household’s seasonal feast or cut a pious dash at Sunday Mass.

“I make the wool go further,” quips ‘N’, “and nothing is wasted. ‘Scraps to hats!’ – that’s my new motto – because ‘from small scraps great ‘acorns’ shall grow”

Livery coats are available in ‘N’s’ signature Murray/Azur and Green/White. “Which will prove more popular?” I ask. ‘N’ is uncharacteristically tight-lipped on this subject. I push him further and finally, in hushed tones, he quietly concedes that he thinks Green/White may be the new Black but, with a twinkle in his eye, adds that he leaves you to draw your own conclusions.


Split! alternatives

This season, single legged hose continues to dominate the 'alternative' field fashions market (see autumn fashion feature). Light weight, easy to put on, and giving a degree of flexibility unsurpassed in any other leg-wear format known to man, the Split is the ideal choice for all eXtremeField enthusiasts.

Split provides all-round movement without the discomfort of those fiddly, cramped up codpieces, and can be worn on one leg or both with mix-and-match options for party-goers. Add to that the convenience of prompt access when at the... erm... convenience, the only draw back is the risk of icy draughts and potential for haemorrhoids.

Use them to show off your equipment and your latest purchases from the 'Boudica's Boudoir for Men' or 'Calvinist Klein' designer breeches collections.

 


Breeching the Peace

"Knight's in white linen..." as the old madrigal goes, was the inspiration for the eagerly awaited winter range from Boudica's Boudoir For Men. The simplicity of the 'Heretic' design centres around the classic lines of a single tube and belies the comfort, practicality and unsurpassed mystery of these undergarments. Using the finest soft linen hand washed in his Holiness's Holy Water, 'Heretic' is as comfortable on the field as it is off behind bedchamber doors. Accessorised  with silk drawstrings in a choice of exciting colours

Coinciding with the Heretic launch are the new designs from Calvinist Klein. Also adopting the tubular design, Klein has geared his to the younger market, coming as they do in an attractive choice of White, Off-White, Fawn, Beige and Grey. Controversially these designs were recently seen on the Paris catwalk being modeled by cross-dressing super-star Joan D'Arc

Both ranges will launch exclusively at de Benham's stalls in September.


 

 

AUTUMN FASHION FOR THE ASPIRING ARCHER

our exclusive preview

(see feature below)

 



HEALTH & EXERCISE

SUNDAY WORKOUT with Steve


Do you worry that you might be developing a waist-line that more suits Tudor stylings? Having trouble squeezing into that breast-plate or brigandine? Then why not do some light Sunday exercise. With Steve Churchill's programme for ultimate fitness you can regain your shape by working out only one day a week!

Before you begin: Make sure you have completed a warm up and are loosened up thoroughly. For these exercises you will need a bow (draw weight dependent on upper body strength), sheaf of arrows and a brigandine.

'Stringing the bow' - Place the lower point of the bow onto the ground. Stand with feet either side of the bow. Grip the top and, pushing down, move your left foot forward and lunge - gently easing the string to the top of the bow. Repeat this exercise for 10 reps gradually increasing the tension on the string until it's attached.

Relax a little by taking ten deep breaths whilst the blood cools from your face.

'Drawing the Bow' - With arrow knocked gently raise the bow (keeping back straightened and knees slightly bent) and draw across your body hands at shoulder height. Then 'loose!'. You should aim to build in groups of twenty reps a minute.

Relax again by taking deep breaths and toweling the sweat from your brow.

'Watch Your Core' - The drawing motion twists your body, you should counter this after every set of reps by twisting in the opposite direction. Keep your shoulders loose and mobile - practice putting on and taking off your brigandine (10 reps) - remembering to keep your back straight and lift with the knees, sucking  in that stomach at all times.

'Unstringing the Bow' - As before place the lower point of the bow on the ground and straddle between your legs. Again applying pressure to the top, this time try lunging with your right foot forward for ten reps - gradually loosening the string until it detaches.

Wind down and relax with deep breathing exercises and a slightly chilled soft drink - and that's all until next Sunday.

 


IN THEATRES NATIONWIDE:


  Autumnal Fashion for  the Aspiring Archer  

 

Bright Yorkist liveries carefully ponced into pleats at the waistline are coming back in this season. Styles include the half-sleeve and cropped all on vibrant Murray/Azur with 'Sun in Splendour' motif.

Delicately hand stitched outfits are of wool and are strong, resilient and warm in all weather conditions - the exception being the 'alternative' single legged hose which, once again, makes its presence know throughout September, October  and December.

 

 

Models; Ian (far left) and Vincent (bottom row, middle). Accessories; models' own. Outfits; Ian wears outfit by Monteglise with breeches from the new Boudica's Boudoir for Men range.Vincent wears livery and hose from the autumn 'N' Yorkismo collection