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Company of Saint Sebastian kit and equipment standards (continued)



Padded jacks and arming doublets


Example of a padded jack

  Padded jack

The padded jack was a basic requirement of the time. Jacks evolved from the earlier 14th Century 'gambeson' (a longer, knee-length garment). The 15th Century jack is quilted and extends no further than the thigh. It consists of a strong outer covering with inner lining, and is padded out with multiple layers of fabric or stuffing. Its predecessor was divided into quilted sections in a vertical pattern, tapering to the waist. The 15th Century style incorporates additional horizontal stitching to make square sections, or is fashioned in a diamond design. The jack includes a padded torso section with sleeves (which are either affixed in the manufacture or attached separately using points). They are often worn under additional mail protection (such as a mail shirt) which provides additional protection from 'slash' wounds and arrows. The jack is fastened at the front (and sometimes wrists) with points, and it necessitates the use a pourpoint underneath, from which to suspend the hose as it is impractical to wear a doublet with the jack.


Image: Tips


Making a padded jack

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    Arming doublet

Arming doublets fall between padded jacks and the regular style of doublet. They consist of an outer covering (in our group's case made of  felted wool) with a lining (linen or silk) and an additional layer of padding between them. Leather is sewn along the outer sleeve from which points are incorporated to attach plate harness. Mail 'voiders' can be used as gussets in vulnerable areas (e.g. armpits). An additional row of points should be added along the base and used to suspend the hose.



Image: Tips

You will need 4 metres of felted wool, 4 metres of thick woollen padding, 4 metres of linen and two wide arm-length strips of leather.

Making the arming doublet is similar to making a normal doublet with the exception of an additional woollen padded lining between the layers of outer wool and linen.

Firstly cut out your fabric to the wearer's shape, and stitch the thick wool padding to the outer panels.

Stitch the back panels together at the centre and attach the front panels at the shoulder. Fold over and stitch from the arm socket to the base.

Stitch the outer edges of the arms, and then turn so that the seam is to the back. Turn over and stitch the leather to the outer arm.  Attach to the doublet body. Add shoulder padding if required.

Make the collar and attach to the doublet.

Line the garment with linen and hem at collar, front gaps, the base and the cuffs.

Add point holes at even intervals to the base and also through the leather section (to match with those of your armour harness - starting at the top of the shoulder and working down).



Making an arming doublet

Illustration WW Forsythe, 2009

Additional notes: Mail 'voiders' can be stitched onto vulnerable areas such as the armpits to provide an extra degree of protection.

Strong, thick arming points of leather or heavily waxed linen should be used to attach armour. The point holes themselves will generally be positioned on the leather at  the top of the shoulder, above the elbow and at the wrist - though this is dependent on the type of harness used. You can always add additional point holes as needed.







Commission of Array
Archery & Archers' Equipment
Armour & Sallets
Padded Jacks & Arming Doublets
Pole Arms & Hand Held Weapons
Doublets & Gowns
Livery Coats
Shirts & Other Linen Garments
Joined & Single Leg Hose
Belts, Pouches & Accessories
Boots & Other Footwear
Hats & Headgear
Miscellaneous Other Items
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This site was designed by WW Forsythe and is Company of Saint Sebastian, 2009. All photographs and other artwork are property of their respective owners, used with permission and credited accordingly.